Of all the traditions surrounding the American Thanksgiving holiday, few are more deeply ingrained than the image of a magnificent roasted turkey at the center of the table. Now, we are taught from a young age that turkey was the main dish at the "first Thanksgiving," the 1621 harvest feast shared between the Plymouth colonists and the Wampanoag people. Even so, a closer look at the historical record reveals a far more complex and interesting story. The truth is, we simply don't know for certain what the main dish was, and it almost certainly wasn't the turkey we recognize today.
The Historical Record: A Matter of Speculation
The primary source of information about the 1621 feast comes from two brief letters written by Edward Winslow, a Plymouth colonist. In a letter dated December 11, 1621, he describes the harvest celebration:
"Our harvest being gotten in, our governor sent four men on fowling, that so we might after a special manner rejoice together after we had gathered the fruit of our labors. But they four in one day killed as much fowl as, with a little help beside, served the company almost a week. At which time, amongst other recreation, we exercised our arms, having many pieces of ordnance, both small and great, and the savage came among us, and the greatest number of them fell to their bows, which was a sight to behold Most people skip this — try not to. And it works..
This letter is the origin of the "first Thanksgiving" mythos. Also, it confirms a three-day celebration with fowl and "many pieces of ordnance" (cannons). That said, Winslow never mentions a specific main dish, nor does he use the word "Thanksgiving." The other letter, written in 1623, provides a bit more detail on the general diet but nothing specific to the 1621 feast.
What We Know Was on the Table: A Feast of Abundance
Based on the known food sources of the region and the accounts from the period, historians have pieced together a likely menu. The feast was not a single event but a multi-day celebration, and the food was likely served family-style from large communal platters. The menu was a reflection of the late autumn harvest in coastal Massachusetts and would have included:
- Waterfowl: This is the most significant category. The "fowl" Winslow mentions were likely a variety of birds that were abundant in the area. This almost certainly included wild ducks and geese, which were much more common and easier to catch than wild turkeys. The practice of hunting waterfowl was a primary source of meat for the colonists.
- Venison: The Wampanoag, who were skilled hunters, likely brought deer meat to the feast. The letter mentions "the savage came among us," implying they were guests who contributed to the meal. Venison would have been a prized and substantial addition.
- Fish and Seafood: The proximity to the coast and rivers meant that fish like cod, bass, and eel, as well as shellfish like clams and mussels, were readily available and likely part of the spread.
- The "Three Sisters": The cornerstone of Wampanoag agriculture was the "Three Sisters" – corn (maize), beans, and squash, which were grown together. It is highly probable that dishes featuring these staples were present. The corn was likely not in the form of modern cornbread but rather as hominy (dried corn kernels pounded and boiled) or used in thickening stews.
- Other Wild Game: The surrounding woods were home to rabbits, hares, and possibly even passenger pigeons, which were incredibly numerous at the time.
Why Not Turkey? The Case Against the King of Birds
While wild turkeys (Meleagris gallopavo) were indeed native to the region and were known to both the colonists and the Wampanoag, there are several strong reasons to believe they were not the centerpiece of the first Thanksgiving:
- Difficulty in Hunting: Wild turkeys are notoriously difficult to hunt. They are wary, fast, and have excellent vision. In 1621, the colonists had only basic firearms (matchlock muskets), which were slow to reload and inaccurate. It would have been a significant challenge to bring down a large turkey, making it a less reliable source for a large feast. In contrast, waterfowl flying in flocks were easier targets.
- Lack of Domestication: The turkeys of the time were wild birds, very different from the plump, domesticated birds we eat today. They were leaner, tougher, and had a stronger, gamier flavor. Roasting a large wild turkey to perfection would have been a considerable culinary challenge with the cooking tools available.
- No Contemporary Mention: The most compelling evidence is the absence of any mention in the primary sources. If a roasted turkey had been the spectacular main course, it is likely Edward Winslow would have made a note of it, as it would have been a remarkable event. The fact that he only refers generically to "fowl" suggests the main proteins were more common, accessible birds.
The Myth's Origin: How Turkey Became the Star
So, how did turkey become synonymous with Thanksgiving? The myth developed gradually over the 19th century.
- A Symbol of American Identity: As the United States was forming its national identity, writers and poets began to romanticize the "first Thanksgiving." The wild turkey, being a uniquely North American bird, was an ideal symbol of the new nation's self-sufficiency and connection to the land.
- Sarah Josepha Hale's Campaign: A key figure in establishing the tradition was Sarah Josepha Hale, a prominent writer and editor. She campaigned for decades for a national day of thanksgiving. In her writings, she consistently portrayed the first feast as including a roasted turkey. Her influence was immense, and her version of history became widely accepted.
- Practicality and Abundance: By the mid-1800s, domesticated turkey farming had become common. Turkeys were affordable, large enough to feed a big family, and in season in the fall. They became a practical and festive choice for a celebratory meal, and the tradition was cemented.
Conclusion: A Feast of Shared Abundance
The main dish at the first Thanksgiving was likely not a single item but a collection of shared bounty. Also, the essence of the meal was not a specific protein but the act of coming together after a successful harvest. The colonists and the Wampanoag shared the fruits of their labor—game, fish, and agricultural products—in a spirit of temporary peace and mutual respect Still holds up..
Not obvious, but once you see it — you'll see it everywhere.
While we may never know the exact menu, focusing on the historical reality offers a more meaningful perspective on the holiday. It reminds us that the original feast was a collaboration, not a conquest, and that the true "main dish" was the shared abundance of a new land. The image of a roasted turkey, while a powerful and enduring symbol, is a later invention. The first Thanksgiving was likely a more diverse and humble, yet equally celebratory, spread of waterfowl, venison, and the hard-won fruits of the harvest.
